12 Season Color Theory: What Hijabis Need To Know
Twelve Season Color Theory is a nuanced approach to color analysis, an evolution of the traditional four-season color theory. This system categorizes individuals into twelve unique color palettes based on their skin tone, hair color, and eye color. The aim is to identify the most flattering colors for each individual, enhancing their natural beauty and creating a harmonious appearance. For women and girls who cover their hair and neck with a headscarf, knowledge of color theory becomes important when choosing the colors and patterns that will look best. I've included some examples of myself both in my best and worst colors to show the impact that the colors right next to your face can have.
Origins of Color Theory
The four-season color theory, developed by Suzanne Caygill in the 1940s and popularized by Carole Jackson's 1980 book "Color Me Beautiful," divided people into four color categories: Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter. Each category had distinct color palettes that complemented the natural coloring of individuals within that category.
As color analysis evolved, it became clear that the four-season model was too simplistic. Enter the twelve-season color theory, which subdivides each of the original four seasons into three additional categories, making the color analysis more precise and individualized.
Undertone, Chroma, Light
Your color season is determined based on three variables: undertone, chroma, and contrast. Undertone can be warm (more yellow) or cool (more blue). Undertone has to do with the tint of the skin, but also the eye and hair color. Natural redheads will almost always be Autumns or Springs, because the warmth in their hair is such a dominant characteristic. Chroma ranges from bright/clear to soft. Soft features appear like they have grey or brown mixed in, while bright/clear colored features appear more pure and easily identifiable. Light ranges from light (closer to white) to dark (closer to black). Deep hazel eyes are an example of a dark, soft feature; light green eyes are an example of a light, clear feature; very dark brown eyes are an example of a dark, bright feature; grey-blue eyes are an example of a light, soft feature.
Understanding one's season in the twelve-season color theory can be transformative for women who wear hijab. It aids in selecting colors that enhance a woman’s natural features. The theory suggests that wearing the right colors can make a person look healthier, more vibrant, and youthful, which I have found to be absolutely true. Many hijabis wear minimal makeup or none at all, and wearing colors harmonious with your features can have a real life filter effect. Take the following photos of me as a case study.
In the first photo, I'm wearing a pull-on hijab from Lululemon in Pomegranate, a saturated red-pink which is great for Deep Autumns. In the second photo, I'm wearing icy baby pink Gucci monogram scarf. Icy pastels are the #1 colors to avoid for Dark Autumns. You can see that it brings out a bit of redness in my features and makes me look tired and dull. You might think there is a difference in lighting in these photos, but there is none! They were taken within 3 minutes of each other in front of the same window.
Undertone, Chroma, Light
Your color season is determined based on three variables: undertone, chroma, and contrast. Understanding these variables is essential to figuring out your color season. Undertone can be warm (more yellow) or cool (more blue). Undertone has to do with the tint of the skin, but also the eye and hair color. Natural redheads will almost always be Autumns or Springs, because the warmth in their hair is such a dominant characteristic. Chroma ranges from bright/clear to soft. Soft features appear like they have grey or brown mixed in, while bright/clear colored features appear more pure and easily identifiable. Light ranges from light (closer to white) to dark (closer to black). Deep hazel eyes are an example of a dark, soft feature; light green eyes are an example of a light, clear feature; very dark brown eyes are an example of a dark, bright feature; grey-blue eyes are an example of a light, soft feature.
Finding Your Season
Below is a list of the visual attributes of each season. I've also included this Youtube video by Beauty Bible because in my opinion, it's the best in-depth color theory quiz available online.
Springs: Warm, Light, Bright
1. Bright Spring: Individuals in this category have high contrast and clear, having a neutral or softly warm undertone. They shine in vibrant, warm colors like coral, bright green, and turquoise.
2. True Spring: True Springs have a warm, light, and fresh appearance. They look best in warm, bright colors like peach, gold, and warm greens.
3. Light Spring: With a soft and delicate look, Light Springs shimmer in pastel shades with warm undertones, such as light ballet pink, butter yellow, and robin egg blue. Their features are light, warm, and soft for a Spring.
Summers: Cool, Light, Soft
1. Light Summer: Light Summers have a gentle, cool, and light appearance. They look stunning in soft, cool pastels like lavender, powder blue, and rose pink. Their dominant feature is lightness, and they are warm for a Summer but still lean cool in coloring and undertone.
2. True Summer: True Summers have cool, muted, and soft coloring. They are complemented by cool colors like sky blue and lavender.
3. Soft Summer: With a muted and soft look, Soft Summers excel in muted shades like taupe, dusty pink, and slate blue. The key for all Summers but especially Soft Summers is to go for colors that look like they have gray mixed in.
Autumns: Warm, Soft, Dark
1. Soft Autumn: Soft Autumns have a muted, warm, and soft appearance. They look great in earthy, muted tones like olive, soft brown, and warm taupe. Their most dominant characteristic is their "warm" coloring, and they have softer contrast and lighter chroma than the other Autumn subtypes.
2. True Autumn: True Autumns have warm, rich, and deep coloring. They shine in warm, earthy colors like burnt orange, mustard, and deep olive. Their most obvious characteristic is warmth, with bright and dark being balanced.
3. Deep Autumn: With a deep and warm appearance, Deep Autumns excel in dark, rich colors like chocolate brown, deep teal, and olive green. They are the darkest and brightest of the Autumn subtypes, and less obviously warm than the other two.
Winters: Cool, Dark, Bright
1. Deep Winter: Deep Winters have high contrast (bright), cool undertone, and dark coloring. They look best in deep, cool colors like black, navy, and deep burgundy. They are the warmest of the Winter seasons but still have a cool/neutral undertone.
2. True Winter: True Winters have a cool undertone, high contrast, and dark chroma. They shine in bright, cool colors like icy blue, bright white, and jewel tones.
3. Bright Winter: With a bright and clear look, Bright Winters excel in bright, cool shades like fuchsia, icy pink, and cobalt blue. Winters in general have an intense appearance, but because of Bright Winters' very high contrast as their dominant feature, they stand out a bit.
Conclusion
Applying knowledge of color seasons is a great way to level up your wardrobe as a hijabi. When you're wearing your best colors, you'll feel more confident in your decision to wear hijab!